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Q: What operating pressure do I need to run this at on a remote? / LPR rig questions…

A: The Tippmann runs on Hpa or Co2 or No2. Just like their paintball markers, they all run at high pressure, preferably 6-800 psi input or more. This means that you do not need a low pressure setup. No, no fancy tank regulator or expensive line and regulator… Just a regular paintball remote line and tank. You just saved yourself another £150. Remote lines: Any standard remote line will work without modification, any PTC line will need a different nipple or the line will not fit.   

Q: I hear it runs on Co2 mags or Hpa or Co2, what do I need to buy?

A: Much the same as above… ALL THE PARTS YOU NEED ARE IN THE BAG OF BITS IN THE BOX! Out of the box the gun is setup to run on in mag Co2 sparklets. You can easily change the system to run on a remote line to your Hpa or Co2 tank in about 5 mins. Read the manual, it will guide you through it. If you don’t feel confident, there are a few videos of people doing it online (myself included, YouTube user: SuperScumble). It’s dead easy to do.

Q: What kind of front rails and stocks fit?

A: The Tippmann is MILSPEC dimensions in both stock and delta nut. Your china clone stock is probably going to be too small and a lot of airsoft delta rings are the wrong thread (this is done to stop people putting cheap quality airsoft bits onto real guns). Do your homework, a hell of a lot of different rails have been put on this gun here, using the search function will probably find that it has been done before. I would also recommend going into the photo’s section to see what other people have done instead of “what rails have you guys put on?” posts. I spotted a rail system I liked and googled it to find that it was Milspec threaded (happy dance). If it isn’t, all may not be lost as you can usually buy a Milspec version of the Delta Nut online. You will find a sheet called "Does this work with my tippmann?" in the files section. Please note, you may need to shim your new delta nut in order to get it to stop wobbling. You can do this by either proper shims, a metric size 16 washer, or a key chain ring.

Q: What mags will work in the Tippmann?

A: If you want to use the in mag Co2: only the Tippmann mag. If you convert to remote line, the world is pretty much your oyster; I haven’t met a mag that won’t feed. That said, the mag release is a sturdy one to hold the gas sparklet, so some may not want to insert perfectly and you may have to smooth the edge where the mag release grips the mag (P-mags do this on mine, have to press the mag release to insert them). If you want to know about a specific make: Search Function… also addressed in the does this work sheet.

Q: Can I change the outer barrel / inner barrel / hop unit / hop rubber?

A: Outer barrels are proprietary, Tippmann sells a longer and a shorter outer barrel. Trying to shove any old outer barrel on is going to need some modification. Inner barrels are just standard AEG type, you can pretty much try anything you like. Hop Unit, this is unique to the Tippmann M4, so not at the moment. Hop Rubber, the stock one (to the best of our knowledge) is a G&G Green and seems to be rather good. You can change it, quite a few have, “If you want to know more…” Do a search for it.

Q: Can i change the grip?

A: the Tippmann pistol grip is proprietary, at current there are not any official after market grips that fit without modification. This does not mean that it cannot be done. There is a rudimentary guide on modifying a grip in the files section and work being done on modifying other grips has been posted previously. This can be found by using the group search function.

Q: What is the best barrel and hop?

A: There is no clear answer on this, just like with other types of airsoft guns. Both Wide bore and tight bore barrels have been tried with varying success. More Hop types and rubbers have been tried than I care to count, once again, what works for one, doesn’t for the other. I strongly recommend that you don’t open this can of worms when it has been addressed many times before.

Q: Do I need to upgrade this out of the box to make it super awesome?

A: No, you don’t. Out of the box, the gun will need tuning, it is roughly set up so it can be tested. After reading you manual about what you should be doing and where (and how it actually works), my personal recommendation would be to adjust FPS, ROF, then your hop as one effects the other, in that order. Once you have run it a few games, you will figure out if you want to change anything to match your play style.

Q: I see a lot of problems on here, is the gun flawed? Am I going to be constantly having problems?

A: You will read about a lot of problems on here because that is what happens in most owners groups. 90% of problems are usually addressed by re-reading the manual. 99% of problems have been addressed on the group (Search Function!) and fixed. If you find yourself in that rare 1%, don’t worry about it… Tippmann is a player orientated company that cares about their users, not just their wallets. You have quite possibly one of the best warranties in retail and certainly the best in airsoft. Opening the gun will not invalidate the warranty, using it outside / getting it wet / doing something stupid / looking at it funny, will not invalidate your warranty. You might get some bemused responses if you have been astronomically daft, but at the end of the day, they will still bend over backwards to help you get sorted.

Q: I hear the hop up system is rubbish?

A: The hop up is unique to the Tippmann as it has to deal with a hell of a lot more abuse than your standard aeg. As such, it has been a learning curve for them and the first units sometimes suffered from a bad fitting nub. This can be corrected by either contacting Tippmann and saying you are having problems (they will bend over backwards to help you get sorted). You can also do a free, easy mod called “the straw mod” (use the search function Luke…) if your hop nub is moving about too much in the hole and creating right hand bias. A further measure can be by one of the multitude of fixes people have manufactured, or getting a custom nub 3D printed. The choice is yours…

Q: My Full Auto is rubbish!

A: Quite probably not, you just don’t understand how the system works. The full auto is purely mechanical and uses a force feedback system to reset the trigger (that’s what that funny pushing sensation was), as such, if you grip like a man on a ledge, the gun will have to use a lot of pressure to push the trigger back and, as such, your full auto will be slow and sporadic. Squeeze the trigger gently, feel where the sweet spot is and tune the ROF to meet your finger. There are a number of fixes on here for adjusting and fine tuning the action of the gun to improve the action if needed, once again, use the force Luke (sorry, Search Function…). If you are really getting nowhere, ask us or contact Tippmann. After a while, your trigger should "bed in" and become much more full auto friendly. It is possible to resolve any trigger binding issues: Do a search for it on the group.

Q: I WAS USING FULL AUTO AND THE GUN BROKE, IT’S TOTALLY LOCKED UP AND I CAN’T GET INTO IT!!!!!!!

A: Firstly, deep breaths… Your piston has probably over pressured, did you go messing about to try and get a higher ROF? All is not lost… In your manual, under troubleshooting, you will find the solution to your problem. If this happens a lot, you might have a loose fitting piston, pull the trigger unit out and see if it fits snugly in the unit. If it doesn’t, fashion a couple of shims from a beer can (soft drink if you’re under the legal age in your country) to fit in the gap snugly and try again. This should fix your problem (or, you could contact Tippmann and tell them, they will probably send you a new trigger unit if it needs it).Once you have manually relesed the sear and got your gun open, you may find that the fire selector still doesn't turn, or the trigger seems stuck. This is because there is pressure stuck in the unit. You will need to screw the rof screw all the way in to release the pressure (try to remember roughly how many turns as it will help you to set it back up quicker).

Q: When will the Gen 2 / Gen 3 Tippmann M4 get released?

A: Tippmann doesn’t work like that. Before the product is released, they beat the hell out of them on a test rig and then hand them to some lucky people to mess about with and generally try to break (See the lucky buggers whose serial numbers read PROTO##). If they discover a problem after general release, they fix it at production and all after they have fixed the problem are the modified type.

Q: What will the next Tippmann airsoft gun be?

A: Until they announce it, we won’t know. Speculations are many and varied and Tippmann aren’t the type to give things away.

Q: I WANT A HEAVY BOLT!!!!!

A: As this i becomming a repeated ask, i will add it here. The Original "heavy bolt" is made by Advanced Airsoft Honolulu, it is sold by them or Amped Airsoft. Any "heavy Bolt" without the Advanced Airsoft Honolulu packaging is most likely a fake and if poorly made will, most certainly, damage your gun. The AAH Heavy Bolt has been tested on the Tippmann Lifecycle test bed and found to have no ill effects if installed correctly.

Written by : Andrew Brown (Tippmann Arms Airsoft Owners' Group)

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